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On the selection of clothing lining

2020-12-09
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Interlining is the material between fabric and lining, which is the skeleton of clothing. Let's take a look at the uses of lining: it is conducive to the modeling, shaping and shape keeping of clothing; it can enhance the straightness and elasticity of clothing; it can improve the drape and comfort of fabrics; it can reinforce specific parts of clothing If the external performance of clothing such as style and fabric is the appearance or style of a garment, there is no doubt that it is appropriate to use such profound words as "skeleton" to describe the lining of a garment. The same reason: different styles of faces naturally need to have suitable muscles and bones, and the choice of lining is also a big problem.


First of all, we should understand the fabric structure, fiber composition and finishing conditions, especially pay attention to the selection of interlining and adhesion conditions. Grasp the discoloration of fabric in hot pressing, and do the discoloration test before application. Master the heat shrinkage and shrinkage of fabric in the bonding process.


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Then choose different interlining according to different parts of garment and interlining. Such as men's and women's shirts choose polyethylene (PE) coating bonded collar lining, which is characterized by excellent washability and neat shape. It can be used as main lining, auxiliary lining, cuff and placket. The fabric finished by organic silicon is field type with good adhesion effect. Polyamide (PA) coating should be used as the outer lining of the outer garment. According to the thickness of men's clothing, women's clothing and fabrics, suitable varieties should be selected, suitable for body, lapel, bag cover and other parts. PA or PES (polyester) coated fashion lining can be selected for fashion and silk clothing, which can give the clothing light, soft, draped and straight style characteristics. The final consideration is to match the color of the lining with the fabric, especially for the thin and variegated fabric. There is no big difference between the heat shrinkage rate of interlining and fabric compatibility. The coating quality of interlining cloth requires that the coating adhesive point is full, without leakage and powder dropping.


Selection of bonding equipment: generally, roller type continuous pressing machine is used for shirt bonding. Master the difference between the temperature, time and pressure displayed by pressing machine and the actual temperature, time and pressure, so as to accurately adjust the process parameters. The upper and lower pressing plates and conveyor belts should be kept clean, and there should be no thread ends, wool, rubber powder and other debris. The requirement of pressing conditions is that before mass production, the pressing conditions must be optimized to determine good process conditions; after pressing and bonding, the interlining and the fabric will be peeled off; if the rubber particles and interlining are evenly distributed, the pressing conditions are appropriate; otherwise, the pressing conditions need to be changed for further test; after bonding, the cloth surface is smooth, no bubbles, no penetration, and the bonding strength is high; the bonding strength is high After that, dry cleaning and water cleaning tests were carried out, and the dry cleaning and water cleaning performance reached the requirements of the garment; the adhesion effect could show the style and characteristics of the garment.

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